YAZEMIN • Afghanistan

4-day Workshop:

“Sustainability in Fashion Design & Production – Afghan Fashion optimisation, from the inside out – exchange & synergy”

Workshop on Fashion Inspiration & Realisation for TM in collaboration with the British Fashion Council.

For this particular project ( funded by Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development of Germany ) I travelled several times to Afghanistan to conduct Design & Pattern workshops with women  in Fayzabad (north of Afghanistan). The  workshop was held at a Women’s Centre  founded by Karin Struck to  train the women in tailoring. The  project was aimed at women who have  to support themselves and their families.  At the end of their 6 months training  the women are gifted the sewing machines  to help them apply their skills in  their homes and possibly start their own  business.

​Afghanistan has shown me another untold story of Afghan life & women and as a result I designed a Collection under the newly founded name „YAZEMIN“.  The theme of this collection is „Europe  meets Afghanistan“. The Collection is very colourful and busy just as Afghan daily life. During my visit I found that whilst Afghanistan is often portrait as a sad and hopeless place the people reflect a different attitude, living a simple life well and often naturally getting their priorities right. Driving through the north of the country, back to Kabul, I got the opportunity to see some of the beauty of the country completely at odds with the many media images of barren, dusty landscapes.

​My Collections have partly been produced by the women in Fayzabad  and have been inspired by my visit and impressions during my time in Kabul and Fayzabad. The handwoven Silk is from Azezana Kabul (www.azezana.net) , a Womens Project, and has  travelled from Herat to Kabul to then be woven by the women. Most other materials & cloths are from the Bazaar in Kabul and Fayzabad.

​The garments and some of  the cuts are inspired by my visit,  the clothes are very wearable while reflecting  aspects of Afghan fashion and living. The skirt of the Burkah dress is made from cut off Burkahs which should not  be taken as a rebellious/ political act against women covering up, but rather as a  different way of utilising the materials  available. Like so many things in Afghanistan,  improvisation is important, as basic european living standarts do not exist in rural  areas. The layering also reflects how  women dress in Afghanistan, wearing layers  of clothing to cover up as well as  the Burkah on top of their outfit.

​The burkha is the inspiration  for many of the pieces in the YAZEMIN Collection. The pleated back trouser with  the short/long shirt looks very conventional  from the front but very different and  busy at the back, the pleats reflect  the pleated fabric of the burkah. The shirt, which is worn on top is long at the front & long at the back which again is reflecting the Burkah which is usually short in the front & long at the back. It can also be seen as a translation into daily life. In many situations the rules of how to behave, especially for women, can be very faceless but under their Burkahs and away from the public eye there are lovely, funny and creative women living „normal“ lives.

​Due to strict dress codes not all pieces can be worn by Afghan  women in public but can be worn in  combination, to special occasions and parties attended only by women. The pieces are  very versatile and wearable and are a  reflection of “ Europe meets Afghanistan“.

November 2012 at London College of Fashion „Paradise Lost“-Fashion Show

Designed & made in collaboration between Sarai Jasmin & Women of Fayzabad ( Afghanistan)

Designed & made in collaboration between Sarai Jasmin & Women of Fayzabad ( Afghanistan)